Stornoway Throw: Border Wrap and Turn


If you are making the Stornoway Throw by Anita Grahn, you are in for a real treat. The body is easy to memorize and the cables are fairly intuitive (with the exception of the Left and Right cable corners, which I explain on my Ravelry project page). The tricky bits are the blanket corners–at least the first time round–because the instructions do not tell you much about working wraps and turns, which can be worked a number of ways.  See, for example Carol Feller’s book Short Row Knits or her Craftsy classes.

This post is for anyone else who is working the Stornoway Throw OR working wraps on a cable piece that takes a turn. It took me a few long nights and some knitting 911 calls to figure this one out . . . and so, here’s hoping someone else can learn from my many many hours of mistakes 🙂 What follows is my method for making things work . . . I’m sure there are multiple ways to turn this border!

Video Tutorial can be found here.

Step 1: Learn the basics about wraps and turns–there is a free Crafsty class available here.

Step 2: Find the right tools. For me, that means gathering my reclosable safety pin stitch markers–you’ll see why in a moment.

Step 3: Read the pattern instructions; mark up your chart well; and if you print out pattern charts, double check your printed pattern against the digital version (I failed to print the corner chart on a printer that had enough ink to show the grey “no stitch” areas, and this messed me up to no end!)

Step 4: Get in the ring! Try and fail! Rip out stitches and rows, if you must! The good news is that you may learn more by failing than by succeeding on your first go.

Let’s get specific: for this blanket, the cables need to turn 90 degrees while maintaining their crosses, which means the entire border needs to take a 90 degree turn. The yellow line below indicates where the wraps and turns are created, picked up, and stitched together ALL WHILE THE CABLE PATTERN CONTINUES ON THE RS OF THE BLANKET.


To achieve this, you work two triangles. In #1 (below), you are knitting in the direction indicated by the arrows; once you get down to two stitches (in the top corner) you then need to begin picking up your wraps along the edge of the triangle so that the border will begin to turn.


For section #1, you simply follow the chart and knit across the RS of your work until you see the wrap symbol. Then, you slip a stitch from left to right (purlwise), turn your work, move the working yarn to the back, and slip the stitch back onto (what is now) the right hand needle. Follow the chart back across the WS of your work. Do this until the final stitches. Work those final stitches per the chart, creating 3-4 more wraps around the final stitch. I collect my wraps on those reclosable stitch markers so that I can find them later.


Once you reach Row 50, it’s time to pick up your wraps so that you can create the blanket corner’s other half (section #2 in the photo above). The pattern does not specify when or how to do this; but I emailed Anita and she suggested that row 49 is the last row before picking up the wraps. Row 50, where the party really starts, is a WS row–all wraps will be picked up on the WS (at least this is how I managed the pattern).

The first wrap pick up requires that you grab 3 wraps. When you turn your work to the WS (you’ll see the wraps lurking below), slip the first stitch as if to knit from left to right and then put it back on the left hand needle (this prevents a hole). Then, pull the wraps up from below and onto the left hand needle. Knit all of the stitches together through the back loop (tbl).

Work your RS row as normal, remembering that when you get to the wrap and turn symbol, you still need to create a wrap to turn your work–but when working on section #2, you do not need to mark these wraps–I found that they just faded into the background.

Now, back on the WS of your work: your first stitch will be the pick-up (again, you’ll see the wraps lurking below), slip the stitch as if to knit from left to right and then put it back on the left hand needle (this prevents a hole). Then, pull the wrap up from below and onto the left hand needle. Knit the two stitches together through the back loop (TBL). Here are the same instructions in pictorial form:


Slip the stitch knitwise from left to right


Place the twisted stitch back onto the left hand needle (the twist prevents a hole); my thumb is covering the orange stitch marker–sorry!


Pull the wrap up onto the left hand needle


Knit the twisted stitch and the wrap together through the back loop (TBL)

You will do this for each of the wraps you have marked with the reclosable stitch markers. Here is what my corner looked like from the WS when I was about half-way finished:


And here is the finished corner from the RS. It’s not perfect (it was the first border corner), but the cables continue on in pattern and the wraps are invisibly hidden on the back. I would love to hear about other folks’ experiences with these wraps and turns! Any advice is welcome! I’d love to hear your experiences!




This entry was posted in blanket, cables, community, help!, instruction, knitting, Stornoway Throw, technique, wrap and turn. Bookmark the permalink.

55 Responses to Stornoway Throw: Border Wrap and Turn

  1. metaspencer says:

    I love the step-by-step!

    Liked by 1 person

  2. Great guide! What is that needle (?) in the first photograph – it looks like a gorgeous colour.

    Liked by 1 person

  3. scyeung says:

    The blanket is incredible. I agree – failing a few times can be the best way to master a new skill. I’ve just learned the meaning of ‘frogging’ a knit (the hard way, of course). 🙂 Thanks for sharing this resource.

    Liked by 1 person

  4. Alina says:

    What a great post for all knitters of this pattern! Sometimes the most complicated things get easily done with just a small visual help!

    Liked by 1 person

  5. The Greyt Knitter says:

    Very beautiful!


  6. Sondra says:

    I have been procrastinating with casting on this project because I didn’t want to just complete the throw and never tackle the border. Unfortunately, I don’t have any knitting friends willing to do a KAL with me, so your page is now my new BFF and I will be casting on this evening (gulp!).

    Thank you for the description and photos. You may “hear” from me again!

    TY! TY! TY!


  7. Sondra says:

    Hi, Melissa!

    Even though I don’t believe in swatching, I decided to “test drive” a corner with scrap yarn. Your directions are invaluable, but I have a few more questions — if you don’t mind sharing again.

    First, the Right Cable Corner and Left Cable Corner. I saw your posting, but want to make sure I am reading this correctly. The way I knit the test corner (using the Right Cable Corner as my example) was as follows: I worked the 2/1 RC pattern THEN took the last stitch of the 2/1RC (the stitch worked from the cable needle in the 2/1 RC pattern), placed it on the CN, moved the other two stitches I had worked from the 2/1 RC pattern to the left needle. I then knit the stitch from CN and then the two I moved to the left needle. Basically, it seems I just worked the three stitches twice. Does this seem correct?

    Second, it appears I have “stacked” wraps from rows 41, 43, 45, and 47. Your instructions indicate I will have THREE wraps to pick-up and knit beginning on what I believe is row 50. Does that mean I will pick-up row 41’s wrap when I work row 52?

    Third, my reading of your blog post is that the wrap and turns from rows 51 on are never worked, correct? Does this create any “holes” in the work?

    Now I realize that is a great number of questions!

    Thanking you in advance for your excellent guidance,



    • Hi Sondra–glad to hear you’re swatching–great idea! To answer your first question, here is what Anita said in her email to me:

      “The directions in the pattern are (which I am sure you have read over and over):

      Right Corner (using 3 sts): 2/1 RC, put last st on CN behind work, put 2 sts back from right to left needle, K the st from CN, K2. (These 3 sts will be worked twice, thus allowing for a distinct and sharp corner to be formed.)
      Left Corner (using 3 sts): 2/1 LC, put last 2 sts on a CN in front of work, put 1 st back from right needle to left WYIB, K the 2 sts from CN, K1.


      2/1 RC: Place 1 st on CN, hold behind work, K2, K1 from CN.
      2/1 LC: Place 2 sts on CN, hold in front of work, K1, K2 from CN.

      In principle, these three stitches will be worked twice for both the right and left corner.
      First move the cable over one stitch (outwards from the centre of pattern) and work the stitches. Then move the cable back to the position it had before and work the stitches.”

      And, I asker her a similar question about the wraps. Here is her response:
      “The first row that you will be working the wraps is on row 49. By then you will have four wraps around the third stitch. The wraps were made on rows 41, 43, 45 and 47.

      In the pattern it says then to Sl1 K-wise, put it back onto left needle, lift the wraps from below and right side onto the left needle behind the st

      So, slip the wrapped stitch knitwise and put it back onto left needle. Then use your right needle from right side of fabric and from below, to lift the wraps onto the left needle.

      Then knit the stitch and four wraps together through the back loop.

      Go on to k1 and wrap and turn… and on… and on.”

      I hope that helps!


      • Sondra says:

        Oh my goodness. You HOPE it helps?! Reading your post made my questions seem so obvious.

        Thank you for your time (again!) and clarity.


        Liked by 1 person

  8. kmcasanova says:

    Frustrated with my first chart project, and approaching the first corner.
    Do the row numbers leading up to the corner, on the corner chart, correspond with the border pattern chart? Thanks.


    • Sondra says:

      i understand the frustration, but if Melussa was able to get me through this, you can do it too!

      I think you are asking if the columns match up. Yes, they do. You will still have thirty seven (37) stitches on your corner needle. Just keep in mind you will not be “working” all thirty seven (37) stitches all the time as you will be working “short rows” with your wrap and turns. (Be sure to watch Melissa’s video and use those stitch markers!)

      I did it, you can too! Keep us posted!


      Liked by 1 person

      • Sondra says:

        Sorry about the typos, especially spelling Melissa’s name incorrectly. iPads have certain disadvantages.


      • Aww, thanks, Sondra! I’m just so happy you finished your blanket! I mention you in the podcast this week (towards the end in a quick segment on correspondence). Thanks for the kind words 🙂 always happy to help, if I can!


    • Hello! I think Sondra has the answer below–yes, your 37 stitch border (or “Edge”) chart represents the same 37 stitches that you will work once you get to the corner. As Sondra says: you’ll be working short rows and only working some of those stitches on the way to your corner, then you’ll add them back in as you turn. Do check out the video and see if it helps! And let me know if I can try to answer more questions!


  9. kmcasanova says:

    Thanks, ladies! I’m sitting down with a cup of tea, and no distractions. I’ll see if I can get through this.


  10. kmcasanova says:

    Ok, I ripped back to a row 2 and I’m starting the chart corner pattern.
    I’m new to this and missing something in the BIG PICTURE.
    1) The first wrap and turn- do I slip the 37th stitch or the end stitch on body of the blanket?
    Do all the wrap and turn stitches connect to the blanket?
    I’m going to review doing short rows now. Wishing I’d chosen wine instead of tea….🙄


    • Sondra says:

      Just so you know, I ripped out my first corner at least twice–this after swatching just the corner, but I will give your question a shot.

      With the corner, you work all thirty seven (37) stitches for the first eight rows, knitting the thirty seventh (37th) stitch with the border main body stitch on rows 1,3,5, and 7.

      You do your first wrap and turn on row nine (9), wrapping stitch number number thirty five (35). This is your first short row. You will not be joining with the main body again until row eight one (81). So, in answer to your second question, no, all wrap and turn sections do not connect to the blanket.

      As I am now a technical writer, the only way I can explain this is magic! it reminds me of turning a sock heel for the first time. You don’t know how it is going to work, but it does.


      Liked by 1 person

  11. kmcasanova says:

    That helps, Sondra, thanks so much.
    I will be ripping it out, because it looks horrible, but I’m dreading it, because then I lose my place on the chart.

    Any hints on how to figure out where you are? I’m not good yet at reading the cables


    • You may be able to rip back to a certain number of stitches in this case (given that the short rows decrease your stitch count)–so rip back to the first row where you have all 37 stitches. Also, you might consider ripping back to a place where the cable is relatively flat (i.e. it’s not crossed and is made up primarily of knit stitches). Otherwise, yes, just learning to read your stitches can help–you might try some of the Very Pink Knits tutorials!


    • Sondra says:

      I agree – Very Pink Knits has excellent, detailed video tutorials. Piggybacking on Melissa’s suggestion, I might also suggest watching the lifeline tutorial, especially with a pattern such as this where you are new to charts.

      There are also several chart markers on the market. I used the Clover chart marker on this pattern. Not only did I check off rows on my pattern after completing the row, but I moved the chart marker up a row so I could walk away and know exactly where I was upon my return. You don’t have to buy a chart marker–you can fashion your own from paper or cardboard–whatever will keep your eyes focused on the correct line.

      Finally, the chart has two of the cables color coded (left cable corner (red) and right cable corner (green)). I color coded the rest of the cables as well. Not only did I get to use my crayons (my chart smelled like a box of Crayolas for days!), but my eyes didn’t go buggy having to figure out the lines in the small chart boxes on the corner chart.

      Look at it this way–you made it through the throw chart, casting on the edge, and edge cables to one corner. That means you have successfully read two of the three charts of this pattern. You only have the corner chart to tackle!

      Liked by 1 person

      • all excellent suggestions! I remember learning these over a long period of time–so nice to have them all consolidated here! One more tip: a book called Charts Made Simple by J.C Briar. Love that one!


  12. Jacey says:

    I love all your suggestions and tried to follow your instructions, I just don’t think it should be this confusing if the chart was corrected on Knit Picks it would save a lot of heartache. Charts are not difficult if the pattern is written correctly. Why on earth would you know to start wraps on line 50 if the chart doesn’t have the wrap and turn symbols? This is also why so many people give up on patterns and charts. Bless you for helping to make this a little less challenging for everyone!

    Liked by 1 person

  13. Becca Clark-Hargreaves says:


    I’m actually working on this blanket and am having difficulty with an earlier part of the pattern. I’ve just cast on the 37 stitches and am beginning the edging chart. Am I correct in interpreting that this chart pattern is to be knit exclusively on the 37 stitches I just cast on? If so, how does this result on an edging around the entirely of the blanket rather than just a blob of edging that juts out from the rest of the blanket?

    Thanks so much for your guidance


    • Sondra says:

      Hi, Becca.

      I like your description of a “blob of edging,” but trust me, if you follow the pattern you will have a cohesive finished object (“FO”).

      You will be working the edging over the thirty seven stitches; however, on the last stitch, you will joining the edge to the stitches you created around the body when you picked-up and knit the requisite number for either the small or large pattern.

      The instructions are: “[o]n each RS row the last st of the chart is worked together with a st from the Body.” This coincides with the “V” on the chart Legend. Keep in mind, you only “attach” on the right side (“RS”) rows. On the return, or wrong side (“WS”) row, you simply purl back.

      Hope this helps a bit. Keep us posted on your progress!

      Liked by 1 person

      • Yes, Sondra has it right! And I would add that the provisional cast on is a great way to begin this section so that, at the end, it’s easier to join the edge together 🙂


  14. I’m currently working on this pattern and even with these instructions I’m stumped! When I finish row 49 and turn to start row 50, I have 1 stitch before I get to the stitch with 3 wraps. Do I knit this first stitch, then pick up the 3 wraps, and knit the wraps tbl with the second stitch?
    I’m also not understanding the purpose of wrapping a stitch at the end of every odd (rs) row on the second half of the chart. I’m just rewrapping stitches. So now I pick up both wraps 2 rows later when I get to them?


    • Sondra says:


      Sorry. Had to pull out my chart to see where you are having difficulty.

      So, my notes on my chart indicate the following:

      On row 49 you complete a wrap and turn.
      On row 50, you pick up wraps from rows 41, 43, 45, and 47.
      On row 52, you pick up wraps from row 39.

      If you have placed a stitch marker on each wrap, after picking up the wraps from rows 41, 43, 45, and 47, you will have sixteen (16) markers remaining. I created a secondary chart just to make sure I was picking up the correct wrap on the correct row. For example, there are 20 wraps total. So, on row 50 I pick up wraps 20, 19, 18, and 17, which correspond to rows 47, 45, 43, and 41. On row 52 I pick up wrap number 15, which corresponds to row 39, etc.

      Also, you are correct in your assessment of the second half of the chart. You do not pick up any of the wrap and turns. I have no explanation for this process; however, I can assure you the W&T does not leave any holes in the second half of the corner. As I wrote in an earlier post, I can only say this is magic, as I have no other explanation for the way it works.

      Be sure to check out Melissa’s video on the corners. I found it invaluable!

      Liked by 1 person

  15. Shelby says:

    This is a fabulous tutorial, I am so grateful for it. I’ve just reached the border, and have cast on 37 stitches onto my left hand needle, but am stumped on the instructions. The edging chart starts with a WS row, so I’ve knitted from the last stitch on the outside of the border towards the body of the blanket, and from the body of the blanket to the outside edge on the RS (odd numbered row). However, the pattern says that I’m supposed to decrease on the RS row by knitting together the last stitch with a stitch from the body of the blanket, but it’s the last stitch on my WS row that is closest to the body, not the RS! Have I messed up?

    Liked by 1 person

    • Hi Shelby! Thanks! And here is my best advice: the Edging chart starts with a *RS row (#1) so after you cast on, you then work back across those 37 stitches towards the blanket and join the last stitch with a stitch from the edging that you have picked up. I know it seems like it should/could be a WS when you work back after the cast on, but it’s not–I hope that helps! Sondra is often reading these comments and may have more insight as she finished the blanket a bit more recently than I did! Best os luck and let us know how it’s turning out! Those corners can be tricky! But you’ve go this!!


      • Sondra says:

        I am so excited for you! The border is the fun an challenging part of this project. As I have repeatedly said, Melissa’s videos are INVALUABLE and, if I can do it, SO CAN YOU!

        I know Melissa’s guidance was correct. The only thing I can think of that may have set you off on the wrong course was if you happened to cast on the 37 stitches on the right needle. I can picture this happening, but it would be tricky to do so. So, my advice is to make sure you have cast on the 37 stitches on your LEFT needle.

        Additionally, I looked through Melissa’s posts, because I am certain she has suggested this, but you may consider a cable cast on for the border. If you can get through the “pattern” bind-off, it makes for a seamless join. (Even my local knitting “expert” has a hard time finding which corner I bound off because I used the cable cast on for the first 37 stitches. I think she is just humoring me!)

        PLEASE keep us posted on your progress. (Keep in mind, I frogged all but one of my corners on this thing!) Hearing that others are tackling this project is pushing me to cast on another Stornoway!



  16. Diana says:

    I have a question concerning the pick up part of the outer part of the throw. Am I supposed to bind off the last row and then begin picking up stitches so as to secure that row from stretching? or am I just using the last knitted row of the body of the throw as a pick up row already on the needle?
    Also – am I picking up on the vertical rows through the slip stitch at the beginning or going to the next stitch on the row to begin?

    Liked by 1 person

    • Sondra says:

      Hi, Diana.

      No. You will not bind off. And, you are correct, the last row is deemed a “pick-up” row. You will be purling those stitches the second round.

      Now, regarding your next question regarding the vertical rows…I don’t start my cast on with a slip stitch, so I really can’t say whether you should start with the slip stitch as a pick-up stitch. What I can share with you is how I wanted my corners to be “closed,” meaning no gaps. As such, I placed my pick-up stitches as close to each corner angle as possible. I don’t know if this really made a difference or not, but I did like my finished product. In other words, you may want to start with your slip stitch for your first puck-up stitch.

      Also, because verticals row pick-up stitches are not one-to-one pick-ups, I counted out my stitches and placed stitch markers at the stitches I was to skip (just so I could make the border as even as possible).

      Additionally, I would recommend a cable cast on for the edging cast on stitches (after you have picked-up your border and completed the task of purling either 302 or 680 stitches!). I think I used the invisible provisional cast-on method.

      Finally, I HIGHLY recommend Melissa’s corner video tutorial.

      Please keep us posted as to your progress. Every time I see someone interested in this pattern it makes me want to cast-on another Stornoway!



      • Diana says:

        Thank you for getting me to the next step. I have watched Melissa’s corner tutorial, which has already been very helpful in bolstering my courage to start the border.


    • Looks like Sondra has you covered–she is awesome at helping folks out with this blanket and I feel like we share this post in all the best ways–thanks, Sondra!! Good luck with the blanket, Diana! It is worth all the trouble in the end and half the fun is trying to figure out these darn corners, it seems–very empowering in the end 🙂 Keep us posted!

      Liked by 1 person

  17. Teresa Berry says:

    I’m working on a knitted blanket and I want to do an applied border on it with garter stitches. Is that possible to do using the method for your stories throw corner? I’ve been looking everywhere on the internet for a tutorial on how to knit applied borders with corners.

    Thank you
    Teresa Berry
    Phoenix, Arizona USA


  18. Diana says:

    I’m stuck. 🙂 I have just finished 4 pattern repeats on the border! Beautiful! Only one problem . . . I have 30 rows before I begin the corner turn. I obviously have done something other than what was intended. Before I began, I counted, recounted, and counted my border stitches to make sure I had the proper amount. Hmmmm . . . maybe I need to learn to count? 🙂 So, I’m thinking that I may have to rip out the border and begin again, but this time I will have to figure out how to get 34 extra rows in. I see that I should have 5 repeats. Is it possible to add rows from the beginning – or even take away rows to accomplish the desired number of actual rows to end at the correct place to begin the corner? I’m going to do some extra thinking before I rip out my beautiful border.

    Liked by 1 person

    • Sondra says:


      I think Melissa will have a better answer than I am going to provide and, without the pattern available, this is my thought. (Once I get the pattern in front of me later today, I may revise this answer.)

      The border has sections with a long cable. My suggestion (again, free thinking) is that you could add repeats in the long cabled portions to make up the difference without having to rip your first Stornoway border!

      My second thought is to double check to make sure you didn’t accidentally pickup the number of stitches for the large version while actually knitting the center for the smaller throw. You have 680 total stitches around your border but it sound like you were anticipating only four repeats, which, I believe was the number of repeats for the smaller throw.

      I really hope you don’t have to frog too much, if at all!



      • Diana says:

        Thanks for being so prompt! And also for the encouragement! Checked my stitches – yes, I’m making the large throw. I am considering adding one extra cable crossing to my border to make up for the missing rows so that I will end up at the corner turn with an extra X in my cable coming from the short side of the throw. The thought of having to completely start over with my border has me thinking very creative thoughts right now! 🙂


      • Diana says:

        I actually was expecting 5 repeats, but didn’t quite get there. Note to self (and to others) before you begin a row, count out the stitches required for each cable repeat and mark the picked up stitches to see how your cables fit. If you see that you’re going to need to add or subtract a few rows to reach the corner according to the corner directions, you can pre-plan to add/subtract a few rows from each long cable area. I’m thinking out loud for my own benefit. 🙂 Also thinking it just might be best to start over. As Winnie the Pooh says, “think . . . think . . . think . . .”


    • Diana! I have been puzzling on this “til my puzzler was sore” as the Grinch says! I did and redid all of the math and the thing is that her numbers for pick ups do not match with the number of decreases . . . I’m always left with 8 extra stitches. Sometimes, this just means my math is bad and I’m tired . . . but I am also vaguely remembering that something like what you’ve experienced happened to me. If memory serves me, once I saw the extra stitches adding up, I ended up doing a double decrease. So, for example: if I saw that I had 10 stitches left, instead of 9 (before the corner) I would do a SSK, but with two of the picked up stitches so that my count would be correct going into the corner. I’ll keep thinking on this. And, as always, Sondra has some great suggestions! I just wanted to get back to you with some thoughts before too much time passed!


      • Diana says:

        Ok. We can all relax! I finally figured out what was troubling me! I had 30 pick up stitches left to the end of the short row and 54 rows of border to knit. Well – after 2 days of trying to decide just what to do, I had an “ah! ha!” moment! Each pick up stitch actually holds 2 rows of actual knitted work. Thus, 30 pick up stitches left me with 60 possible knitted rows to finish! So, I’ve been celebrating by knitting to the corner! Almost there!

        Thank you all for your kind responses. Each one encouraged me to keep moving toward resolution!

        Liked by 1 person

      • Sondra says:

        I’m so excited for you! And, I am glad you gave us the follow-up because I could see myself making the same mistake when I go back to this pattern.

        You have not only helped me, but probably future knitters.

        Let us know how you feel when your project is complete!


  19. Diana says:

    Short edge 143 stitches – long edge 197. I marked through each row as I knitted to make sure I was correctly moving through the border chart. Any advice?

    Liked by 1 person

  20. Sondra says:

    Winnie also says “Oh, bother.” 😉

    I feel your frustration! I can’t tell you how many times I counted and recounted those puck up stitches before cautiously beginning the border. (680 is a LOT of PURLED stitches!)

    I also remember putting stitch markers about every twenty stitches or so and different colored markers at the corners.

    Please keep us posted, especially since I continue to learn about this pattern from the posts on Melissa’s blog!!!!!

    Liked by 1 person

  21. Oh phew!! So glad, Diana! Let us know how it goes!


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